Note: These assembly instructions will also guide you through building up your 3-speed Step-Through. Just imagine a swoopier frame in the photos.
Prep and Tools
The Almighty Unboxing
Make sure your bike is upright with the arrows printed on the box pointed upward.
Cut the binding straps to open the box and lift the bike out by the frame and rear wheel.
Place the bike flat on the ground with the attached front wheel facing upward. Use scissors to cut the zip ties that secure the front wheel to the frame.
Remove the plastic protectors from the axle and set the wheel aside for the time being. Then, remove the black protectors from the front and rear dropouts and any other packaging material. (Be careful to stay clear of the cables with your blade).
Stand the bike upright with the fork and protector on the ground.
Seatpost and Saddle Install
Using your 5mm allen key, loosen the seat post collar and remove it.
Grease the inside of the seattube of the frame (not the seatpost, unless you want a mess on your hands).
Replace the seatpost collar making sure it is flush with the bike frame and slide the seatpost into the frame ensuring that the minimum insertion marker is below the collar.
Use your 5mm allen wrench tighten down the seatpost collar.
Now, mount your saddle to the seatpost by tightening the 6mm bolt underneath until the saddle is secure. (Fine tuning can be done later).
Handlebar and Brake Install
Insert the stem into the headtube (make sure the wedge piece is still threaded on the bottom of the bolt) and tighten with your 6mm wrench when it's at a comfortable height.
Center the handlebars and rotate them up to a comfortable riding angle. Then, tighten the 6mm bolt under the clamp to secure them.
Now, locate the end of the front brake cable and thread it through the lever mounted on the handlebars.
Use one hand to pull the lever to give yourself room to get the "head" of the cable in there, and then pull the cable through the slot until it's sitting snugly at the end of the lever.
Once it's in there, twist the plastic bits at the end of the lever so the cable is secured and can't "slide out" the now-misaligned slots.
Brake lever on!
Unpack the pedals from the small included cardboard box. The pedals will be marked with either an “R” or an “L”. This will indicate which side of bike the pedal will fit. “R” will be for your driveside and “L” will be the opposite. Look for stickers, or check the ends of the axles for a stamp.
Make sure that before you install your pedals you properly grease the pedal threads. This will ensure that you are able to remove your pedal down the line if you decide to upgrade.
Now it's time to bust out that 15mm wrench. We're going to start on the right-hand side of the bike (driveside). Take the pedal labeled “R” and carefully insert the pedal thread into the right crank arm and begin to turn to the right (clockwise). After the pedal is initially seated, take your 15mm wrench (clockwise still) and get that pedal tightened and secured. Make sure not to over tighten as this can cause stripping.
Now for the left pedal. Take the pedal labeled “L” and, again, begin by greasing the threads on the pedal and the crank arm.
Before we go any further it is vitally important to know that the left pedal is reverse threaded. This means that you're going to tighten the pedal by turning it to the left (counter-clockwise). “Lefty Tighty” might seem a little counterintuitive, but it is massively important to remember when installing your pedals.
Now, carefully insert the pedal thread into the left crank arm and begin to turn to the to the left (counter-clockwise). After the pedal is initially seated, take your 15mm wrench and get that pedal tightened and secured. Again, make sure to not over tighten as this can cause stripping.
After you've finished take a step back and marvel at your work. You're one step closer to having a built up bike!
The front fender mounts to the brake bolt, so begin by loosening the caliper and pulling the brake bolt out of the fork.
Place the fender mount between the two serrated washers on the brake bolt, then tighten everything back to the fork.
Now, locate the two loop tabs at the end of the fender's stabilizer arms. Use the bolts at the fork ends to secure the stabilizer arms.
The rear fender is already mounted, but you need to do the same thing to the stabilizer arms. Bolt the two loop tabs to the rear dropout using the included bolts.
Front Wheel Install
Take your front wheel from earlier and loosen the axle nuts using your fingers or 15mm wrench. Then, align the front wheel and slide the tire between the brake pads and the axle into the fork.
Once your wheel is in place use your 15mm wrench to tighten down those axle nuts.
With many fasteners on the bike you'll want to be careful not to over tighten, but with these you need to make sure they're secure. The hub itself will stop the bolt from turning once it's tightened down.
With your 5mm allen wrench, loosen the bolt that holds your brake cable into the brake caliper. Your brake caliper will open completely, no worries that's a-ok!
Using one hand pinch the caliper until the pads are lightly touching the braking surface. With your other hand, pull the cable taut and tighten that 5mm bolt back up again. Once you let go you should only have a few millimeters of space between the brake pads and the rim on either side.
If you notice that one pad is much closer to the rim then the other, just push the calipers back to center.
Now you'll want to align the pads to the rim. Loosen the 4mm bolt holding the pad into the caliper. Align the pad with the braking surface so that the top of the pad is close to the edge of the rim without contacting the tire (contact with the tire is BAD. It can strip important rubber form the sidewall and lead to a blowout).
Tighten down that bolt ensuring that the pad does not misalign. Test everything by spinning the front wheel and to make sure that there's no contact between the tire/brakes/rim/wheel when the brake is not engaged.
First, go over every bolt and make sure nothing is loose and we mean every bolt. Here is a list of bolts we have not gone over in assembly:
(1) Crank bolt - 8mm allen (if this loosened up in shipping your crank arm can fall off (bad).
(2) Chainring bolts - 5mm allen
(3) Water bottle holder bolts - 4mm allen
(4) Seatpost clamp bolt - 6mm allen
We didn’t worry about getting that seat exactly where we wanted it when we greased and installed the seatpost. You can now loosen that seatpost clamp and center the saddle on the top tube of the bike and also adjust for height. Just remember not to raise your seatpost past that minimum insertion line.
Next, you can fine-tune your handlebar height and angle with those bolts on the stem and, once they're set, you're ready to ride!